There’s a particular kind of heartbreak that comes from watching a patch of raspberry canes fill with green growth, flower like mad… and never give you a single berry. I know, because it happened to me.

Years ago, in my first real homestead garden, I thought I was doing things right. I tidied everything up in early winter. Cleaned up all the messy old canes. Cut every single one back. Felt good about it—like I was giving the plants a fresh start.

Next summer? Nothing.

What I didn’t know then was that raspberry pruning isn’t just about cleanup—it’s about strategy. And the first step to getting it right is knowing what kind of raspberries you’re growing.

1. Floricanes vs. Primocanes: Know Your Canes, Know Your Harvest

Raspberry canes live on a two-year cycle. The secret to pruning is understanding which canes are which—and what they’re planning to do next.

• Primocanes are first-year canes. They grow lush and green, and if you’re growing everbearing (also called fall-bearing) varieties, they’ll even fruit lightly at the tips by late summer or fall.

• Floricanes are second-year canes. These are the ones that carry a full summer harvest. After they fruit, they’re spent. Their job is done.

Here’s the catch: If you cut floricanes too early—or prune primocanes by mistake—you wipe out next year’s berries. That’s what I did that winter. I cut down everything, not realizing I’d just cleared out all my floricanes before they got the chance to give back.

You can usually tell the difference by feel and look:

• Floricanes: woody, dull brown, bark may peel

• Primocanes: greenish, flexible, smooth

2. When to Prune (and Why It Matters)

Timing your pruning right is just as important as knowing what to prune.

🫐 Summer-Bearing Raspberries

(These fruit only on floricanes, once a year—usually early to midsummer.)

• Right after harvest: Cut down the canes that just fruited. They’ll never fruit again.

• Late winter (dormant season): Thin out the remaining first-year canes to about 4–6 strong ones per foot of row.

🫐 Everbearing (Fall-Bearing) Raspberries

(These fruit at the tips of primocanes in fall—and again on the lower part of the same cane the next summer, if left.)

You’ve got two options:

👉 Option 1: One Big Fall Crop (Simple Method)

• In late winter, cut all canes to the ground.

• New primocanes will grow in spring and fruit in fall.

• Pros: Easy, uniform crop, fewer pests

• Cons: No early summer berries

👉 Option 2: Two Smaller Crops (Selective Method)

• After the fall harvest, trim just the top portion of the cane that fruited.

• Leave the lower part intact.

• That same cane will fruit again early next summer—then you can cut it out.

📍 Zone-Based Timing Tips:

• Zone 3–4: Prune in late March/early April

• Zone 5–7: Prune in February or early March

• Zone 8+: Prune in January

Always prune when canes are fully dormant—this reduces stress and helps avoid spreading disease.

3. Step-by-Step Raspberry Pruning Guide

✂️ Summer-Bearing Pruning (Floricanes)

1. After summer harvest, identify spent canes—gray, brittle, bark flaking

2. Cut those down to soil level

3. In winter, thin new green canes to 4–6 per foot

4. Tie them to a support if needed

✂️ Everbearing Pruning (Primocanes)

One Fall Crop Method:

• In late winter, cut everything to the ground

• Mulch and wait for strong primocane growth

Two-Crop Method:

1. After fall harvest, trim the top third of the cane (where it fruited)

2. In spring, leave the lower cane intact

3. After summer harvest, remove that cane entirely

4. Tools You’ll Need (And What to Avoid)

✅ Best Tools:

• Sharp bypass pruners for normal canes

• Loppers for thick, woody floricanes

• Gloves—raspberries don’t pull punches

• Vinegar or 70% alcohol to sanitize between cuts

❌ Avoid:

• Dull blades (they tear and invite disease)

• Dirty tools (especially between plants)

• Pruning during or after rain

5. What Not to Prune

Mistakes here cost real harvest. Here's what to leave alone:

• Healthy green primocanes on summer-bearing types—these are your next floricanes

• Leafy growth in fall—plants are still storing energy

• Thin, low suckers within the row—some may grow strong come spring

When in doubt: mark it and wait. It’s better to prune late than wrong.

6. What to Watch For While You Prune

Think of pruning as a wellness check for your patch. Be on the lookout for:

• Suckers growing outside your intended row? Remove them.

• Rot at cane bases or blackened tips? Cut them out and don’t compost.

• Rust-colored or powdery leaves? Treat or remove to stop spread.

• Sparse sections? You may be over-pruning—or need to boost soil health.

7. Pruning Within the Bigger Picture

Pruning isn’t a one-and-done task. It’s part of your seasonal rhythm:

Season Task Winter Prune, thin, compost canes, check trellis Spring Water early, monitor sucker spacing Summer Harvest, remove spent floricanes Fall Mulch, prep for dormancy, mark canes for later

Pair this with your winter composting and trellis maintenance, and your patch will stay productive year after year.

8. FAQ: Pruning Panic Questions

“I forgot to prune last year—what now?”

Thin things out now, focus on removing old wood. You’ll get fewer berries this year, but you’re back on track.

“Can I cut everything and still get fruit?”

Yes—if you’re growing everbearers. But not if they’re summer-bearing.

“I’ve got a wild mess—where do I even start?”

Start by removing anything dead or woody. Then thin slowly, one section at a time. Don’t try to do it all in an hour.

9. Grandma’s Tip: “Cut the old to make room for the sweet.”

She didn’t say much when she pruned—but she always said that.

“If it gave fruit, let it rest. What’s green and growing now is what feeds you next.”

I think about that every time I look over a winter patch, pruners in hand.

Remember: Every cane you cut the right way makes space for sweeter berries next year.
Prune with intention. Let the old make room for the new.

You’ll taste the difference.

— The Grounded Homestead