Your Guide to Purchasing Laying Hens

Bringing home a new flock of laying hens is an exciting moment, but the real work starts long before you pick them out. Getting their home set up properly from the get-go is the single most important thing you can do to ensure they stay healthy, happy, and productive. If you skip this prep work, you're setting yourself up for potential stress, disease, and heartbreaking predator problems down the line.

Getting Your Coop and Property Ready

Before you fall in love with a particular breed, your very first job is to get familiar with your local laws. Many towns, cities, and even HOAs have surprisingly specific rules about keeping chickens.

You'll often find regulations that dictate things like:

• How many chickens you can have: Some areas put a cap on flock size.

• Whether roosters are allowed: Roosters are noisy and often banned in residential spots.

• Where you can put the coop: Setback requirements are common, meaning the coop has to be a certain distance from your property line or your neighbor's house.

Just give your local city planning or zoning office a quick call. They can clear everything up and save you a major headache later. It’s always best to get the official rules, not just go by what a neighbor says.

Building a Safe and Cozy Coop

Once you've got the legal stuff sorted, it’s time to focus on the coop. Think of it less like a house and more like a fortress. It's your flock's primary defense against predators and their shelter from harsh weather. A solid coop isn't a luxury; it's a necessity.

The two pillars of a great coop are security and space. Raccoons, hawks, coyotes, and even the dog next door can be persistent threats. This means you need to use hardware cloth (that tough, ¼-inch or ½-inch wire mesh) over every single opening—windows, vents, you name it. Standard chicken wire keeps chickens in, but it won’t keep a determined predator out. Also, make sure your latches are tricky enough that a clever raccoon can't figure them out. For a more detailed look at what goes into a solid build, check out our guide on setting up a chicken coop for beginners.

I've seen it happen time and again: people underestimate just how determined a predator can be. A raccoon can shred flimsy chicken wire in seconds. Investing in the right, sturdy materials from day one is one of the smartest moves you can make.

How Much Room Do Your Hens Really Need?

Nothing causes problems in a flock faster than overcrowding. It leads to stress, which can cause feather picking, bullying, and make it easier for diseases to spread. A happy hen needs her personal space to act like a chicken.

When you're planning the coop, a good rule of thumb is to provide at least 3-4 square feet per bird inside. This gives them enough space to roost at night without being crammed together and allows them to move around on rainy days when they're stuck indoors.

The outdoor run is just as critical. Here, you'll want to give them a minimum of 8-10 square feet per bird. Honestly, more is always better. Extra space means less boredom and more room for them to scratch around for bugs and greens, which keeps them healthy and entertained. Getting these numbers right from the start ensures your hens will have a low-stress, comfortable home from the moment they arrive.

Choosing the Right Laying Hen Breed

With your coop set up and waiting, it’s time for the best part: picking out your chickens! Selecting a breed is more than just a fun shopping trip; it’s a decision that sets the stage for your entire chicken-keeping journey. The breed you bring home will determine everything from the color of your eggs to how often you collect them and even the personality of your flock.

Before you get lost in pictures of beautiful birds, take a moment to think about your goals. Are you looking for a dependable supply of eggs for your family's breakfast table? Or are you dreaming of a "rainbow" basket filled with blue, green, and chocolate-brown eggs? Knowing what you want upfront will save you from potential disappointment down the road.

This isn't just a hobbyist's decision anymore, either. As more people turn to backyard farming, the financial side matters. The global hen market was valued at around USD 257.7 billion back in 2025, and it's only growing. This boom is fueled by a huge consumer demand for protein and a real shift toward more ethical, small-scale farming.

Matching a Breed to Your Climate

Your local weather is the first and most critical filter for choosing a breed. A chicken that’s perfectly happy in a mild Florida winter will be miserable—and likely unhealthy—in the freezing temperatures of a Minnesota blizzard. Likewise, a heavy, cold-hardy bird can really struggle in the blistering Texas heat.

• For cold climates: You’ll want robust breeds with smaller combs and wattles, as these are less susceptible to frostbite. Think Wyandottes, Australorps, and Orpingtons. Their stocky bodies and thick feathering are like a built-in winter coat.

• For hot climates: Look for lighter-bodied chickens with large combs and wattles. These features act like a radiator, helping them cool down. White Leghorns are a classic choice for hot regions because they handle the heat well while still being egg-laying machines.

Ignoring your climate is a classic rookie mistake. A comfortable, happy hen is always going to be a more productive one.

Production Layers vs. Heritage Breeds

Now, let's talk about the big debate: production layers or heritage breeds? There's no single right answer here; it all boils down to what you prioritize for your flock.

Production breeds, like the classic Rhode Island Red or the popular Golden Comet, are specialists. They have been bred for one thing and one thing only: laying an incredible number of eggs. We're talking 300 or more per year in many cases. They are the undisputed workhorses of the chicken world.

Heritage breeds are the traditional, old-school chickens that were common on farms before industrial agriculture took over. They typically lay fewer eggs—maybe in the 150-200 per year range—but they bring other things to the table. Heritage birds are often better foragers, are naturally hardier, and tend to live longer, more productive lives. They also come in a stunning variety of shapes, sizes, and colors. For a closer look at what to expect, take a peek at our guide on raising chickens for eggs.

To help you sort through some of the most common choices, here’s a quick comparison of a few popular laying breeds.

Popular Laying Hen Breeds at a Glance

This table is just a starting point, but it shows how different breeds offer unique combinations of traits. A little research now will help you build the perfect flock for your homestead.

The temperament of a breed is just as important as its egg output, especially if you have children. A calm, friendly breed like the Buff Orpington can become a true backyard pet, while a more flighty breed might be better suited for a hands-off approach.

Don't underestimate the value of a docile flock. It makes daily chores like health checks and collecting eggs a genuinely pleasant experience instead of a frantic chase around the yard.

Where to Find Healthy Laying Hens

Okay, so you've picked out the perfect breeds for your climate and egg-laying goals. Now comes the big question: where do you actually get your chickens?

This isn't a small decision. The source you choose has a huge impact on the health, genetics, and even the temperament of your birds. Getting this right from the start can save you a world of trouble and vet bills later on.

There are a few well-trodden paths to acquiring a flock, and each has its own pros and cons. Let's break them down.

Farm Supply and Feed Stores

Your local feed store, whether it’s a big chain like Tractor Supply Co. or a small, independent shop, is probably the most convenient place to start. Come springtime, you'll hear the tell-tale "peep, peep, peep" from their brooder bins. They usually stock common, hardy breeds as day-old chicks and sometimes even have pullets (young hens almost ready to lay).

The convenience is fantastic, but there's a trade-off. The staff usually won't have a detailed history of the birds. These chicks typically come from large, commercial hatcheries, so you won't get specifics on the parent flock's health or genetic lines. It’s a solid option for getting started with popular breeds, but if you're looking for a rare or specific type of hen, you might need to look elsewhere.

When you're at the store, take a good look at the conditions. Are the brooders clean? Do they seem overcrowded? Are the chicks active and alert, or are they lethargic? These are immediate clues about the quality of care they've received.

Mail-Order Hatcheries

If you want a smorgasbord of options—including rare and heritage breeds you'd never find locally—ordering directly from a hatchery is the way to go. One of the biggest perks is that reputable hatcheries will vaccinate chicks for major diseases like Marek’s disease before they even ship them. That's a huge plus.

You can often order as few as three to five chicks, and they'll show up at your local post office a day or two after hatching. The main downside is, of course, the stress of shipping on such tiny animals. While hatcheries are pros at this and most chicks arrive just fine, there’s always a small risk. The key is to do your homework and pick a hatchery with a long track record of great reviews.

Local Breeders and Farms

This is my personal favorite route. Buying your laying hens from a local breeder is one of the surest ways to get healthy, well-adjusted birds. A good breeder is passionate about the health and temperament of their flock, and you get the invaluable benefit of seeing the parent stock and their living conditions with your own eyes.

Think of yourself as a detective. Don't be timid—this is your chance to ask the important questions. A good breeder will be happy to answer them.

• What are your biosecurity practices? This tells you how seriously they take preventing the spread of disease.

• Can you tell me about the flock's vaccination and health history? Transparency is the sign of a trustworthy breeder.

• Have you had any recent issues with respiratory illnesses? This is a big one. Respiratory problems can sweep through a flock and are notoriously difficult to get rid of.

Another bonus? A local breeder can become a fantastic resource, offering advice and support that's specific to your area. You can find these folks through local farming groups on social media, Craigslist, or simply by word-of-mouth. It takes a bit more legwork, but the quality of the hens you'll get is often unmatched.

How to Spot a Healthy Hen

When you're finally looking at a group of potential new flock members, this is where the rubber meets the road. You need to put on your inspector's hat. Bringing a sick bird home is a recipe for heartache and vet bills, so giving each hen a quick but thorough health check is absolutely essential.

Don't feel awkward about it. Any reputable seller will expect you to handle the birds and look them over. Think of this simple inspection as your first and best line of defense for the flock you already have back home.

The Head-to-Toe Physical Check

I always start at the head and work my way back. The signs of a vibrant, healthy chicken are usually pretty obvious once you train your eye to spot them.

• Eyes: You want to see bright, clear, and wide-open eyes. If you notice any swelling, cloudiness, or weeping, that's a hard pass.

• Nostrils (Nares): They should be clean and dry. Any bubbles, gunk, or discharge is a tell-tale sign of a respiratory infection brewing.

• Comb and Wattles: On a mature hen, her comb and wattles should be a rich, full red (this can vary by breed, of course) and feel soft and waxy. A pale, purplish, or shriveled comb is a classic indicator of a bird that's "off."

A healthy hen is a busy hen. She's alert, curious about what you're doing, and clucking around with her flockmates. A bird that's hunched in a corner, fluffed up, and keeping to herself is almost always trying to hide an illness.

As you move down the body, gently part the feathers to get a look at the skin. You're searching for any signs of parasites like mites or lice, which love to hang out around the vent (the rear end). The vent itself should look clean with fluffy feathers, not caked with droppings—a messy vent often points to digestive trouble.

Lastly, take a peek at her legs and feet. The scales should be smooth and lie flat. Watch her walk for a moment to make sure there's no limp or hesitation in her step.

Behavioral Red Flags to Watch For

Beyond the physical exam, a hen’s behavior speaks volumes. A healthy flock is an active one. You should see them scratching in the dirt, pecking at interesting things, and generally acting like chickens.

Being this careful is more critical than ever, especially with ongoing poultry health concerns. For example, massive outbreaks of Highly Pathogenic Avian Influenza (HPAI) have taken a serious toll on poultry populations. By early 2025, the national laying hen flock in the U.S. was down to about 304 million birds. That’s a drop of roughly 6.8% from the pre-HPAI average of 326 million back in 2021. You can learn more about these flock population trends on Egg-News.com.

Here are the warning signs that should make you walk away immediately:

• Lethargy or Huddling: A chicken standing off by itself, looking listless with ruffled feathers, is not feeling well.

• Coughing, Sneezing, or Gaping: Any noise that sounds like a respiratory struggle is a major alarm bell.

• Messy Vent: Often called "pasty butt," a dirty rear end is a clear sign of an upset stomach or worse.

• Limping or Lameness: Trouble walking could be a simple injury, but it can also signal a more serious condition like bumblefoot.

At the end of the day, trust your gut. If a bird just doesn't seem right to you for any reason, it's always better to pass. There are plenty of healthy chickens out there, and your patience will be rewarded with a happy, thriving flock from day one.

Bringing Your New Hens Home

You've picked out your birds, the deal is done, and now it's time to get your new hens settled in. Don't rush this part. How you handle the journey home and their first few weeks can make all the difference for their long-term health and how well they lay for you.

Their first big test is the ride home. I find that a large, well-ventilated dog crate works perfectly. Just make sure you don't overcrowd them. A layer of clean pine shavings or straw on the bottom gives them good footing and helps keep things clean. Try to keep the car quiet and drive smoothly—it’s a stressful experience for them, and a calm journey helps a lot.

The All-Important Quarantine

Once you get home, the single most important rule is this: do not put your new chickens directly in with your existing flock. I can't stress this enough. A strict quarantine is your only real defense against introducing diseases to the birds you already have.

You'll need a totally separate, temporary setup at least 30-40 feet away from your main coop and run. This "welcome coop" needs its own dedicated feeder and waterer to stop any potential cross-contamination. For the next 30 days, your routine should be to care for your established flock first, then go tend to the new arrivals. Make sure to wash your hands and even change your shoes between visiting the two groups.

It might feel like a pain, but quarantining new birds is the best insurance policy you have. It's how you prevent an outbreak of mites, lice, or a nasty respiratory illness that could wipe out your entire flock. Trust me, one sick bird can turn into a huge headache.

This month-long waiting period is your chance to observe the new hens closely. You’re looking for anything you might have missed at the seller's farm—things like lethargy, sneezing, coughing, or weird-looking droppings. This buffer gives any hidden health problems time to show up before they have a chance to spread.

Integrating the Newcomers

After a successful quarantine with no signs of trouble, it's finally time for introductions. Chickens live by a strict social ladder, the "pecking order," and just throwing new birds into the mix is a recipe for chaos and fighting. The key to a peaceful flock is a slow, gradual introduction.

I’ve had the best luck with the "see but don't touch" method. Put the new hens in a secure pen or even a large dog crate right inside or next to the main flock's run. Let them live like this for a few days so everyone can get used to the sight and sound of each other without any actual physical contact.

Another great trick is to provide plenty of distractions when they finally do mingle. High-value treats or a "cabbage tetherball" can redirect aggressive pecks and help smooth things over. A well-fed, entertained chicken is a happier chicken. You can even dive into making your own high-quality food by following our guide on how to make chicken feed.

Taking these careful steps is part of being a responsible chicken keeper. It's a small-scale version of what happens on a global level. In the European Union, for example, laying hen production was around 393 million birds in 2024, all managed under different systems. You can learn more about these European poultry systems on PoultryMed.com. By properly integrating your new hens, you're ensuring they become a healthy, productive part of your own little backyard ecosystem.

Answering Your Top Questions About Buying Laying Hens

Even after doing your homework, a few questions always seem to pop up right before you bring home your new birds. Let's walk through some of the most common ones I hear, so you can make your final decisions with total confidence.

What's the Best Age to Buy Laying Hens?

This really boils down to your personal preference for time versus money, and how hands-on you want to be.

Many first-timers go for point-of-lay pullets. These are young hens, usually around 16 to 22 weeks old, that are literally on the verge of laying their first eggs. If you want fresh eggs as soon as possible, this is your fast track.

The other popular option is starting with day-old chicks. This is a much cheaper way to get started, and there's something incredibly special about raising them from tiny fluffballs yourself. Just know you're signing up for a few months of daily care with a brooder and special feed before you'll see a single egg.

How Many Chickens Should I Get?

I can't stress this enough: chickens are flock animals. They get lonely and stressed by themselves, so you should never, ever keep just one. For a standard backyard setup, starting with three to five hens is the sweet spot.

A healthy, happy hen in her prime will give you about five or six eggs a week. So, with a small flock of three, you're looking at over a dozen eggs every week—more than enough for most families. It’s a great, manageable number to start with as you're learning the ropes.

Before you get your heart set on a number, just be sure to double-check your local laws. Many towns cap the number of birds you can have in a residential area.

Do I Need a Rooster for My Hens to Lay Eggs?

This is probably the biggest myth in the chicken-keeping world. The answer is a firm and simple no. Your hens will lay eggs regularly with or without a fella around.

A rooster's one and only job is to fertilize the eggs. You only need a rooster if you want to hatch your own chicks. For a flock that's all about egg production, a rooster is often more trouble than he's worth, especially in a neighborhood where his crowing will not win you any friends.

How Do I Introduce New Hens to My Existing Flock?

Bringing new birds into an established flock has to be done slowly and carefully if you want to avoid chaos. That 30-day quarantine we talked about is non-negotiable—it's your best defense against introducing disease.

Once the new girls have passed their health check, it's time for a "look but don't touch" phase. Set them up in a separate, secure pen right next to your main flock. Let them see and hear each other for a few days without any physical contact.

When you're ready for the big meet-and-greet, do it at night. Placing the new hens on the roost in the dark while the others are sleepy is the oldest trick in the book for a reason—it dramatically cuts down on the morning drama. Make sure to also put out extra food and water stations to prevent any one bird from hoarding resources and starting a fight.

At The Grounded Homestead, we believe that growing your own food is one of the most rewarding journeys you can take. For more tips, guides, and inspiration for your homesteading adventure, visit us at https://thegroundedhomestead.com.